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It’s time for houseplants to go to summer camp

by Theresa Friday

Foliage plants can be beautiful additions to a home or office.  The plants that are commonly grown for decorative purposes are usually tropical plants.  A tropical plant doesn’t tolerate cold temperatures, so they are happy indoors during the cooler months.  But, they would prefer to be outside during warmer weather.

Now that the weather is warm and humid, think about giving your houseplants a break from the stuffy indoors and set them outside during the summer.

According to Dan Gill, LSU AgCenter Horticulturist, moving houseplants outside can be a little tricky. Houseplants become accustomed to lower light conditions while indoors. So never move houseplants from an indoor environment to direct sunlight. Most houseplants aren't prepared to handle the strong rays, and will quickly yellow and wilt.  Some will actually get sunburned.

Initially, move houseplants outside to shady locations where they receive no direct sunlight. Plants that like low-light conditions can stay in those locations all summer. Others that prefer more light can gradually be introduced to some direct sun over the next couple of weeks.

Eventually, sun-loving houseplants – like bougainvillea, hibiscus, plumeria, tibouchina, and cactuses– can be placed in locations that get about six hours of direct sun. Be careful, even sun-loving houseplants may burn if put in a sunny location as soon as they come out of the house.

Once outside, most houseplants would enjoy a good rinsing off with the garden hose. You can clean away months of indoor dust by doing this.

Put your houseplants on tables or stands rather than directly on the ground. This will keep pests like slugs and ants from invading through the drainage holes, and it'll make watering a lot easier.

Houseplants that are moved outside will likely need to be watered more frequently than when they were indoors. Air movement, brighter light and faster growth all contribute to faster water use by plants in containers.

Feel the soil often and monitor the soil moisture carefully. Let the soil surface get dry to the touch before watering.

The 'ZZ' plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), like Aglaonema and Dieffenbachia, is a member of aroid family.   Because of its unique appearance, ability to tolerate low light levels and drought, and resistance to diseases and pests, it makes a great houseplant.

Plants moved outside for the summer generally grow vigorously, so if you want to encourage that growth, it’s a good idea to fertilize them. Fertilization is especially important to plants that are growing in soilless potting mixes, are root-bound, or seem pale and lack vigor. It’s generally optional to fertilize plants that appear healthy and vigorous and are already as large as you want them to be.

Houseplants brought outdoors for the summer are much more susceptible to insect problems than those kept indoors. Check plants regularly for signs of infestation such as holes in leaves, wilting, and yellowing. Check under the leaves, the areas where they join the stems, and the soil, and don't forget to check under their pots as well.

In the fall, bring your houseplants indoors before nighttime temperatures dip to 50 degrees F.

When houseplants are brought indoors, be sure to check for unwanted guests--like ants, termites and other pest insects. Soaking the pot in a tub of lukewarm water for about 15 minutes will force insects and other creatures out of the soil.  If snails, earthworms or insects burrowed in the soil, you might want to repot the plants, placing a piece of wire screening over the drainage hole to keep them out next year.

So if you have a languishing houseplant, move it outside during the warm summer months.  It will usually grow better and more vigorously than if kept inside.

Using weed killers in the heat may result in damage

By Theresa Friday

Lawn weeds drive some people up the wall, while others couldn't care less as long the yard is green.  Unless a lawn is properly maintained, weeds will creep in.

The surest method to keep out weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn that provides consistent coverage. As soon as the desirable grass thins or dies out, undesirable weeds will immediately occupy the ground—nature abhors a blank spot.

Weeds can be indicators of problems.  Often, the presence of specific weeds in turf provides clues to the type of environmental and management problems. By learning about weeds that commonly occur under certain conditions, gardeners can more easily identify these problems and correct them.

Dichondra and dollarweed look similar. However, dichondra grows on drier sites while dollarweed grows on wetter sites.

Crabgrass, for example, is a good indicator of compacted soils, overfertilization, low mowing height, or poorly drained soils — or a combination of these factors.  Heavy dollarweed infestations are often the result of mowing too low, failure to manage diseases like large patch and/or the soil being too wet.  Red sorrel may indicate an acid soil and plantains may indicate an alkaline soil. An abundance of spotted spurge and Florida pusley may indicate nematode issues.

The presence of an indicator weed suggests a condition but is not proof of a condition.  Contact your local Extension Office for confirmation of a problem.

There are three primary methods of controlling weeds.  Any one method, when used alone, will not usually control all of your weeds. To consistently control weeds you must use a combination of all three practices.

The first method is cultural.  Maintain a healthy lawn by watering, fertilizing and mowing properly.  For more information on recommended cultural practices for our Florida lawn grasses, visit http://yourfloridalawn.ifas.ufl.edu/.

The next method is mechanical.  Many weed species do not tolerate frequent mowing. Adhere to the mowing frequency and cutting height guidelines developed by experts to limit the development of weeds. Hand pulling annual weeds is effective; however, in our summer heat, this may be difficult.  Nevertheless, hand pulling a strange or new weed when it first appears in the lawn will help to prevent the spread of that weed later this year.

The third method, and last resort, is chemical. Herbicides are chemicals that are used to control the growth and development of a weed. As it gets hotter, we should be very careful what chemicals we use on our lawns, since they also can cause dead or stressed areas.

If applying herbicides make sure the lawn is not under moisture stress (received water within the last 24-48 hours), and that the chemical being used is not applied during the hottest part of the day (1-3 PM). Some herbicides cannot be used when the temperature is above 85 degrees F.

Because using weed killers can be tricky this time of year, you may want to avoid using them during the months of July and August unless you are really careful with the equipment calibration and application rates.

While gardening enthusiasts may tire of hearing it --the label is the law.  Read and follow all instructions before buying and before using any pesticide. Know what the weed is that you are aiming to kill. Be sure that the product says that it can be used where you intend to apply it

Theresa Friday is the Residential Horticulture Extension Agent for Santa Rosa County.  The use of trade names, if used in this article, is solely for the purpose of providing specific information. It is not a guarantee, warranty, or endorsement of the product name(s) and does not signify that they are approved to the exclusion of others.

For additional information about all of the county extension services and other articles of interest go to: http://santarosa.ifas.ufl.edu.

Enjoy nature's second bloom

by Theresa Friday.

Record setting heat along the Gulf Coast has many gardeners seeking relief indoors.  This is the time when gardeners must be cautious when working in the heat.  However, there are still gardening tasks that must be done.  If you can, work outside in the early morning before the heat of the day becomes oppressive. The evening might also be somewhat cool, but you may have to contend with clouds of mosquitoes!

According to Dr. Gary R. Bachman, Assistant Extension Professor of Horticulture, Coastal Research & Extension Center, an important garden maintenance activity that is sometimes overlooked due to the heat is removing spent flowers or deadheading.

Flowering plants require deadheading for several reasons. It extends the bloom period, removes the seed source of species that could become weedy and maintains the health of our flowering garden plants.

Many plants will bloom repeatedly if the fading flowers are removed. A plant's ultimate goal is to produce seed for the next generation. If we interrupt that process, the plants will continue to try and complete their genetic programming by flowering again.

Flowering plants are capable of producing a large seed bank containing hundreds or even thousands of seeds each year. The germination of these seeds has a couple of unexpected consequences.

First, many times the seedling does not come "true" meaning it is not a duplicate of the original plant.  Second, these seedlings could crowd out the mother plant.  Deadheading these species before seeds are produced will alleviate the problems of unwanted seedling germination.

Deadheading is also needed for plants that we grow for foliage, like coleus. Removal of the non-showy flowers will allow the colorful foliage to be the focus.

The overall health of your flowering plants can be increased through deadheading. The production of seed requires a tremendous amount of energy from the plant, so much so that the plant will sacrifice all vegetative growth in order to produce the next generation. By removing the spent flower heads the plant can be maintained in a more vegetative growth stage through which the stems, leaves and most importantly the root system will continue to grow.

The procedure for deadheading will depend on the flowering characteristics of the plants themselves.

For plants having single flowers, such as zinnia or coneflower, removing the flower stalk is all that is needed. You can increase bloom size by removing side flower buds so more energy is sent to the main flower.  This will also reduce any seed production pressure later in the season or next year.

Many of our flowering garden plants have clusters of flowers.  These can be more troublesome. All of the flowers do not mature at the same time; therefore, seed is produced over a prolonged period. As the flower cluster starts to fade, remove it, and allow the plant to produce new clusters.

Some plants like dianthus produce flowers over the entire plant. Removing individual flowers would discourage even the most dedicated gardener, so simply shear the plant using snips or an electric trimmer being careful to only remove the faded flower heads.

By practicing the task of deadheading throughout the summer season, nature will bless you with a second wave of blooms.

New weapon in the fight against the mole cricket

By Theresa Friday

Mole crickets can be serious pests of Florida lawns, gardens and pastures.  But before you panic and begin treating your lawn, let’s learn about a new strategy for mole cricket control.

There are several pest species of mole crickets.  We have a native mole cricket in this area, but it is rarely a pest.  It’s the introduced, or exotic, species that cause all the trouble. They were accidentally introduced to the southeastern United States in the early 1900’s, almost certainly hitchhiking in ship’s ballast. 

How do you know if you have a mole cricket problem?  Mole crickets feed on plant foliage and roots.  In the lawn, they will eventually cause a brown or dead spot.  Other common signs include narrow tunnels and small, raised mounds of soil.  However, don’t assume that every mound or every dead spot indicates mole crickets.  Many things can cause a dead spot and small mounds can be created by earthworms.  The only sure-fire way of knowing you have a mole cricket problem is to flush them out.

The best way to monitor for mole crickets is the soap flush technique.  In a sprinkling can, mix two tablespoons of lemon liquid dishwashing soap in two gallons of water.  Apply this solution to a 2-foot by 2-foot area where you suspect mole crickets.  It’s best to do this late in the day and after the lawn has been recently watered. Mole crickets are not evenly distributed throughout the turf, so repeat the soap flush in several areas of your lawn.  If two to four mole crickets emerge within a few minutes, control measures are justified.

How do you get rid of mole crickets?  Chemical control is possible but you must choose the right chemical and the right time to apply. 

Late June or early July is considered to be the most ideal time to apply control measures based on extensive research and knowledge of the mole cricket life cycle.  It’s important to treat when the young mole crickets begin actively feeding in early summer.  The longer you allow them to feed and grow the more difficult the task of managing them.  Adults are very difficult to control because of their ability to tunnel.  Tunneling allows the adults to avoid contact with many conventional pesticides.

There are a number of products on the market to control mole crickets.  Look for products that contain bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, fipronil, imidacloprid or lambda-cyhalothrin. Be sure to read and follow all label directions.

The exciting news is that non-chemical control measures are helping to win the battle against the mole cricket. Biological control agents including wasps, nematodes and flies imported from South America are now being used.  They have helped to reduce mole cricket populations in the Gainesville area by 95 percent, and these biological controls are spreading throughout Florida.

 A wildflower, Spermacoce verticillata, is a favored nectar source of adult mole cricket hunter wasp, Larra bicolor.

One biological control agent is active in the Florida Panhandle.  An imported wasp (Larra bicolor) attacks pest mole crickets. This solitary wasp, called the mole cricket hunter, stings the pest mole cricket and lays an egg. The wasp larva begins feeding on the mole cricket and kills it within two weeks.

The Larra bicolor wasp is currently present in 46 of Florida’s 67 counties including Escambia, Santa Rosa and Okaloosa counties.

So help is here in the form of a solitary, copper and black colored wasp.  Let’s wish her well in the fight against the pest mole cricket.

Tips for tasty tomatoes

by Theresa Friday

     The mention of home grown tomatoes will make a gardener’s mouth water.  But growing tomatoes in the heat and humidity along the Gulf Coast can be a challenge.  Summer can be a tough time for tomatoes to set and hold fruit. The heat causes irregular flower growth in most cultivars, and the result is poor fruit set.  Some tomato cultivars are now available that have genetics to beat the heat, but they still won't do miracles. So here are a few tips to make your tomato harvest even more satisfying.

A leaf-footed bug, a type of stink bug, uses its piercing-sucking type mouthparts to feed on tomato fruit, causing corky areas under the skin of the fruit and distortions 

    First, be sure to control the pests.  Many worms love tomatoes as much as gardeners.  The tomato horn worm is that giant, green caterpillar that devours tomato leaves, while the tomato fruit worm bores into the fruit. A biological product called B.t. (Dipel, Thuricide) can be used for control.

     Stink bugs will pierce the fruit and leave pin-sized puncture wounds that result in white dots or specks on the tomato.  These insects can be very difficult to control.  Contact your local Extension Office for current recommendations.

     Second, water appropriately.  Typically, the home garden needs to be watered according to soil needs. Water so that root zones are neither too soggy nor too dry. Morning watering is thought to keep roots cooler and plants less stressed.

     Remember to step up the volume and frequency of supplemental irrigation as plants load up with fruit.  There is a sudden demand for more water as fruit enlargement occurs and if the extra soil moisture requirement is not met, then blossom-end rot can ruin your crop.

     Blossom-end rot is a nutritional disorder. Too little available calcium, too much or too little water and severe pruning favor its development. This can be corrected to some degree by watering consistently.  Spraying the plant with a solution of calcium chloride may also be helpful. Spray according to product labels.

 On tomato, blossom-end rot usually begins as a small water-soaked area at the blossom end of the fruit. This may appear while the fruit is green or during ripening. As the lesion develops, it enlarges, becomes sunken and turns black and leathery.    

Third, mulch plants well to cool roots and even out soil moisture. Research indicates that a white or light-colored mulch is much better than the black plastic that works so well on spring tomatoes. Dark mulches get too hot in the summer.

     Fourth, apply a tomato fungicide on a regular basis to extend the season. For best results, a fungicide program should be started before serious disease symptoms are present. One that contains mancozeb (Dithane, Manzate) or chlorothalonil (Ortho® Max™ Garden Disease Control, Ferti-lome Broad Spectrum Landscape & Garden Fungicide) can help to control the fungal blights, while copper sprays can be included for help in controlling bacterial spot.

     Fifth, harvest when the tomato is ripe to ensure maximum flavor.  The color should be even and bright red.  The tomato should be firm but yield slightly to pressure.

     Never refrigerate your tomatoes.  Refrigeration will result in less flavor and firmness.  Keep the tomatoes out of direct sunlight and store with the stem-up to prevent bruised shoulders.

     So enjoy your home-grown tomatoes as long as you can.  And if the plants don’t make it through the heat of the next several months, be sure to plan for a fall-planting in August.  If you have trouble finding the cultivars you want, get into the habit of starting your own from seed a month or two ahead of time.

Black twig beetle bores into local trees

by Theresa Friday

The warmer weather and frequent rains along the Gulf Coast has stimulated lush, green growth in the landscape.  So, when you notice a dead branch in a tree, you have to wonder what’s going on.  Dead twigs and branches can be caused by several things including mechanical breakage by high winds.  Recently, however, we’ve seen several trees affected by a common beetle.

A perfectly round pin-sized hole is the entry point for the black twig borer beetle.

Black twig borer beetles are very small, about a sixteenth of an inch long and one of the few ambrosia-type beetles to attack healthy plants.  Adult beetles overwinter in infested tree twigs and branches.  They emerge during late February and re-enter new twigs in March.  By April they are hollowing out the insides of these twigs, developing galleries to lay eggs.  They also introduce a fungus into the burrow that produces a white fungal "ambrosia" on which their immature grubs feed.  The physical damage and the fungus cause the infested twigs to die back to the point of entry.

Bending the infested twig at the entry hole will cause it to break.  Sometimes you can see the black beetle.
The black twig borer is native to Asia.  It was first collected in the United States at Ft Lauderdale, Florida in 1941. By the mid 1970s, its range extended northward to Tallahassee and Savannah, Georgia. The present distribution in the Southeast is along the Coastal Plain from Texas to North Carolina.

While its most common host plant is the dogwood, the black twig borer beetle will attack up to 224 different tree and shrub species. Known Florida hosts include red maple, pecan, redbud, sweetgum, Magnolia, willows and blackgum.

The first sign of an infestation is the wilting of small twigs and branches.  This beetle only damages branches that are approximately pencil size in diameter. These small branches eventually die above the point of entry with the leaves turning brown, creating a flagging effect of numerous dead branches scattered throughout the outer canopy of the tree. These dead twigs with their brown leaves are what bring attention to the infested trees.
Numerous dead branches scattered throughout the canopy may be an indication of a black twig borer infestation

If you notice these symptoms, look on the underneath side of the affected twig or branch.  Look for a perfectly round hole about the size of pencil lead in diameter.  Bending the infested twig at the entry hole will result in it snapping and breaking. Sometimes you may see the minute, shiny black beetle and/or the white brood inside the tiny hollowed out area of the twig at the point where it snapped.

Where practical, the best control is to prune tree limbs three to four inches below the infested area, then remove and destroy the limbs.

While this insect may cause lots of twigs or branch tips to die, it is not considered a major pest in landscape trees and shrubs.  Many trees have lived with an infestation for years. Proper mulching, avoiding overfertilization and irrigating during dry weather should improve tree health, allowing trees to better withstand attacks.

For more information, call your local Extension Office or view an online University of Florida publication at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN577.

"Bee" aware of pollination in the vegetable garden

by Theresa Friday

When growing squash, vigorously growing plants and lots of pretty, yellow flowers are good signs but certainly not a guarantee that you will have a bountiful harvest.  Actually, those healthy-looking plants and showy flowers may be signaling a time for you to literally get "as busy as a bee."

Flower from zucchini squash. Note rudimentary fruit below the flowers.

Squash, like all members of the cucurbit family, have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. For fruit set to occur, pollen must be transferred from the male to the female flower. This process (pollination) is a function normally carried out by insects, most often honeybees.

The primary reason the numerous yellow flowers may yield little, if any, squash is an absence of honeybees and the resulting lack of pollination. This is especially true in urban/suburban areas where honeybees seldom choose to build their hives.

An absence of honeybees is a real problem, but one that can easily be overcome if you are willing to take their place. You can play "bee" by hand transferring the pollen from the male to the female flowers. It's simple, easy and almost always guaranteed to result in plenty of garden-fresh squash for your dinner table.

Before we get into the art of "playing bee," you obviously need to be able to tell the difference between the male and female flowers. The female squash flowers are those that have a very distinct swelling or enlargement directly behind the petals which is actually the small, immature squash fruit. The male flowers lack the immature fruit and are simply attached to the plant by a long, slender stem. Both male and female squash flowers are open only for a single day.  They open during early morning and generally close by mid afternoon.  Pollination is best done in the morning, when high humidity helps to activate the pollen.

Playing bee can be accomplished in several different ways.

You can use a cotton swab or a small paint brush to transfer the pollen from the male to the female flower. Simply dab either the swab or brush into the center of a fully open male flower, making sure some of the yellow pollen grains adhere to the cotton or bristles. Then, transfer the pollen by dabbing the swab or brush into the center of an open female flower. In most cases there is enough pollen in one male flower to pollinate three to five female flowers.
Flower from cucumber.  Note the straight stem below the flower.

A less sophisticated, but just as effective, method when playing "bee" is to simply pull off an open male flower, remove or peel back the flower petals and then dab its pollen-laden center into the center of an open female flower. Make sure the center of the male flower (anther) makes good contact with the center (stigma) of the female flower. Since this is a much less pollen-efficient technique, use one male flower to pollinate no more than three female flowers.

If you find reason to treat your squash with pesticides to control diseases or insects, do so during late afternoon. Spraying or dusting at this time will greatly reduce the chance of harming pollinating honey bees.

So don't let an absence of honeybees keep you from enjoying the great taste of home-grown squash. Arm yourself with a cotton swab, small brush or a male flower and pollinate away!

For more information visit the University of Florida IFAS publication "Hand Pollination" at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/HS398.

Prepare the landscape for hurricane season

by Theresa Friday

Florida’s hurricane season begins June 1, so now is the time to survey your landscape and identify potential hazards.

     It is extremely important to check your trees early.  Determine now if they need to be trimmed or taken out.

     Trees that lean significantly should be evaluated for removal.

Consider removing trees with trunks that show significant decay and threaten a home or other important structure.  Trees that are leaning significantly also should be evaluated for possible removal.

     Remember that large trees can impact more than just your property, so you should consider how your trees might affect neighboring properties as well as your own.

     Be sure to look for branches that hang over the house near the roof.  Although the branches may not be touching the roof under normal conditions, the high winds of violent storms or hurricanes can cause trees to bend and branches to flail around considerably.  Since that could cause extensive damage to the roof, such branches generally should be removed.

     It’s best to have this kind of work done by a professional – a licensed arborist – who has the training and tools to do it right. You may be able to do some smaller jobs yourself, but taking out big trees or trimming larger branches probably should be left to the professionals. 
Plant large trees in open spaces.  Sidewalks and curbs interfere with root systems, making them less stable

     For more information on how to manage your trees to make them more wind resistant, contact your local Extension Service or visit http://treesandhurricanes.ifas.ufl.edu/managing.html.

     While those are some of the things to do well before a storm, you also need to take action in your lawn and landscape if a storm is approaching.  Add the following items to your hurricane preparation plan.

• Secure loose objects in the landscape.  Look around your grounds for container plants, hanging baskets, tools, lawn furniture (including porch swings), toys, bicycles, bird feeders, wind chimes, barbecue grills, playhouses and doghouses. 
• Pesticides and motor fuels should be stored in areas that are secure and higher than potential flood waters. These products can be hazardous if flood waters spread them through your home or garage.
• If you have a vegetable garden, harvest all vegetables that you can before a storm hits to get them out of harm’s way. There will likely be little left if high winds occur.  Produce covered by flood water will have to be discarded.
• Aquatic gardens also need some attention if a storm is approaching. Aquatic plants in pots are often set on bricks, cinder blocks and other supports to boost them to the proper level in the pond. These potted plants should all be set on the bottom of the pond until the hurricane passes. You also may want to consider bringing valuable fish, such as expensive koi, inside in a large bucket of water dipped from the pond to protect them. 
• Fountains should be turned off and secured, and electrical cords should be unplugged, rolled up and secured.
• If preparing to evacuate and time permits, be sure to water your indoor plants before you leave.

Keep in mind you won’t have time to focus on your landscape once a hurricane warning is announced, and you certainly won’t have time for it if evacuations are called for, so prepare your landscape now for the hurricane season.

Dazzling, durable daylilies

By Theresa Friday 

Daylilies are popular perennials. Serious gardeners know them by their scientific name of Hemerocallis, Greek for "beauty" and "day.” It is true that individual flowers last only one day, but new buds on the flower stalks open almost daily. Sizeable daylily clumps with numerous flowering stalks can remain in bloom for an entire month.

The modern varieties of daylilies have been developed from native Chinese species. Early settlers from Europe and Asia brought many of the original species with them to America. During the last 75 years, hybridizers in the United States and England have made great improvements in daylily varieties.

Daylily varieties are classified by several factors, including flower color and plant size. One important classification now commonly used is hardiness type – dormant, semi-evergreen or evergreen.

Dormant daylilies offer little if any resistance to low temperatures, and foliage will disappear in the winter until new growth emerges from the soil the following spring. Semi-evergreen varieties have foliage that dies down briefly in early winter, but new growth starts re-emerging slowly until more rapid re-growth starts in early spring. Evergreen daylilies are commonly used in commercial landscaping efforts. These varieties maintain foliage through the winter in the warmer climate of the Gulf South.

Many new flower forms and flower colors are now available. Almost every color is available with the exception of pure white and blue. Flowers can also have multiple colors on a single bloom. Flower shapes also vary including full doubles.

They typically reach a mature height of 1-5 feet, depending on the variety. Flower size can range from small flowers no more than 2 inches across to large flowers 8 inches across.

Daylilies grow in clumps, and bloom heaviest in spring and early summer.  Your daylily planting can make the biggest impact in your landscape if you group together multiple plants of the same color. Groups of daylilies provide spots of color and a soft texture to any landscape setting.

Daylilies can be low-maintenance plants. Plant them in full to partial sun. Daylilies prefer a well-drained landscape bed but can tolerate poorer soil conditions. Make a slightly raised bed for daylilies by incorporating organic matter. Adjust the soil pH so that it is slightly acid (6.0-6.5) Fertilize in early spring and again in early summer, if needed, to promote plant vigor.

One valuable benefit of daylilies in the landscape is their ability to multiply. Daylilies increase in size from year to year and can be divided almost any time of the year to produce new plants.

In 2000, an introduced airborne fungus called daylily rust began to attack daylilies nationwide. It will not kill an otherwise healthy plant but will make it quite unsightly and decrease its performance. The most obvious symptoms of daylily rust are yellow to brown streaks and small, very bright yellow spots on the surfaces of the leaves. Small, orange to yellow spots on the undersurfaces of the leaves contain pustules that release numerous dust-like, orange-colored spores. As symptoms progress, leaves turn yellow and dry. Take a white facial tissue and rub it across the affected area. If a yellow-orange stain appears on the tissue, that’s a sign your plant has daylily rust.

Management strategies for daylily rust include growing varieties that are resistant to this disease, cutting off infected foliage and removing it from the garden, and periodically spraying susceptible plants with fungicides. Contact your local Extension Service on more information on how to control daylily rust.

Mowing magic

by Theresa Friday

A healthy, good-looking lawn isn’t the result of magic.  It’s from using proper cultural techniques and mowing is perhaps the gardener’s most important chore. Done properly, mowing can increase the thickness of the lawn and make it more resistant to weeds.  Done improperly, mowing can produce long-term damage to the turf.

Cutting height and frequency are the most critical components of proper mowing.

Turfgrass undergoes physiological stress with each mowing, particularly if too much leaf blade is removed.  A rule of thumb is to never remove more than the top 1/3 of the foliage in any one cut. When the turf grows back out about 50 percent, then it's time to mow --even if it's not yet Saturday morning.

Recommended mowing heights for St. Augustine are 2 ½ to 4 inches. However, only the dwarf varieties of St. Augustine, such as ‘Seville,’ ‘Jade,’ ‘Palmetto,’ and ‘Delmar’ should be mowed at less than 3 inches.  Centipede is best cut 2 to 3 inches.

A sharp mower blade produces a cleaner cut with less stress on the grass. Sharpening a common rotary mower blade is not a big problem and should be done often.

Rotary sharpening stones that fit on a hand drill are available. They can sharpen a blade or 'bring out the edge' without removing the blade from the mower housing. These, however, will just do light-duty sharpening and will not allow for balancing the blade to reduce vibration.

The best way to sharpen a rotary mower blade is to take off the blade and sharpen with a grinder or metal file. When grinding, use eye or face protection and watch out for your loose clothing and sparks.

Before working on the mower, always disconnect the spark plug wire. Tilt the mower body to reach the blade, and watch for leaking gas and oil. Chock the blade with a piece of wood so that it can't spin. Remove the blade’s fastening bolt with a wrench or socket. Note the top side and bottom of the blade. Installation is the reverse procedure.

When sharpening the two cutting end surfaces, maintain the cutting surface angle at an angle of about 40 degrees. Thinner will be too knife-like and weak; it won't hold up. Thicker angles will be blunter and will not cut as cleanly. As you sharpen, move the blade back and forth with light pressure. Avoid overheating the steel and losing the metal's temper (hardness).

After sharpening, always check the blade's balance using an inexpensive, cone balancer. A nail in a wall or stud can do in a pinch. If the blade leans more to one end, take more metal off of that end's cutting surface to balance it. A balanced blade will vibrate less and cause less engine wear.

Never try to straighten a badly bent blade. Never try to use a cracked blade. If the blade is damaged or the cutting surfaces worn too thin, replace the blade.

Choose the correct blade type and length for the mower housing and type of mowing you do. Mulching blades have more bends and greater cutting surface than do standard blades. Mulching blades are designed to circulate the clippings and cut them several times. On most lawns, grass clippings should be returned to help recycle nutrients to the soil.

After sharpening your mower blade, be sure to to check the blade's balance.